The search begins. The first thing I need to do is get out of the supermarket, as there’s really very little food of any kind there, much less real food—which (when present) seems an afterthought. The first places I discover are Whole Foods and Trader Joe’s.

Trader Joe’s could only have started in California, though it’s since spread over 9 states. The atmosphere is funky and the food a big step up from any supermarket I’ve ever seen. The selection isn’t humongous, but a lot of what they have is really, really good.

The organic free range chicken, done slowly on the barbeque with a bit of thyme, is leagues beyond supermarket chickens, which seem tasteless by comparison. There are a surprising number of cheeses, and also Charles Shaw wine, which I’m told is rather good yet costs a mere $2.00 (hence its nickname: “Two-Buck Chuck”).

Most of the items here are very reasonably priced, making TJ’s seem a good place for the health- and budget-conscious shopper. The produce section, though, is rather small; I’ve visited about a dozen stores so far, and this is true of all. Speaking of which, the stores’ sizes and layouts (and parking) vary considerably—so if one doesn;t suit your fancy, try another.

Next up: Whole Foods. What can one say? This national chain is the antithesis of the common supermarket. I happen to walk into the flagship store in Tarzana (Los Angeles), which is simply awesome. Lots of real food here, literal tons of produce—much of it organic, some of it local—and a staggering variety of edible choices. I could pitch a tent and live here, I think.

Organic meats, fresh fish, scores of cheeses, dozens of yogurts; the place is a a marvel. Suppliers range from folks in New Zealand to the restaurant across the street, which makes and delivers fresh hummus daily. There’s wine here, too—a wine bar as well—but I get the sense they won’t be selling Two-Buck Chuck any time soon. I try the best (and most expensive) packaged turkey breast I’ve ever had (organic, antibiotic-free, etc.), and find a (growth hormone-free) yogurt I adore.

Real food really does taste better. Wow.

Prices here are considerably higher than what I’m used to seeing—but then again, I’m not used to seeing food of this quality. And as Michael Pollan points out, Americans are willing to pay a premium for quality in other areas—so why not food? Standing in this 30,000 square foot wonderland of goodness, it’s hard to disagree. The other stores I visit are smaller, but still sizable. Brands carried can vary, though; I’ve yet to see the yogurt I like in any of the other stores.

Both Whole Foods and Trader Joe’s have an interesting policy designed to encourage customers to try new things: if you don’t like the food, you can bring it back for exchange or refund. Not because there’s anything wrong with it, mind you—but simply because you don’t like it. Works for me; I’ll be trying all kinds of new things.